Koto Tuo > Karau valley > Bukit Kumay (66km)

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Today, I visited the Harau Valley with Winda, a guy I met on the road early this morning. Then we spent some time at his home. Because his home was 20km towards Bukittinggi, today I progressed only 30km forward. At this speed I will be late in Dumai! I must hurry up a bit more or stop meeting nice people. The problem, they are everywhere in Sumatra ;-) Then I cycled uphill for most of the day and found a nice warung where to spend the night. Interesting day again :-)

Map. I slept about the middle of this track. First cycle up to the valley, then went to Payakumbuh in Winda’s home, finally I cycle back up north in the mountains.

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This is how I slept last night. This time I set up the tarp because these days it’s raining every morning and sometimes at night time. I did not want to rick have a shower in the middle of the night ;-) It has been really quiet and only this morning when I was packing my stuff some guys appeared on the road and watched me. That was ok, I did not have any trouble. They were simly curious.

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This morning the weather is very misty. The pictures might be good with that smocky effect :-)

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During I was cycling towards the entrance of the Harau Valley I’ve some racing cycling overtaking me. The last guy, Winda, stayed next to me until he offered to come with me to visit the Harau Valley. Well, why not.

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Usually I like to take some picture of the landscape and don’t bother to be in the frame. Once per day max is enough. Winda is very enthusiastic, every time I said I wanted to take a picture he thought I wanted a bloody selfie.

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A couple stopped not far from us with also bicycle. The girl asked for a picture with me hahaah :-) I’m a star youhouu! Hopefully I’m not, It must be so annoying to be followed by fans everywhere. I’m only cycling fortunately… They will forget me very quickly.

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This time Windy, the cyclist I met earlier is with us.

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We continue to cycle towards the Harau valley.

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I should not say I wanted to take a picture… Here I am again.

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Winda does not smoke, does not drink, does sport. What an healthy life! I did not met many people like him here when in Australia they are everywhere.

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We just entered in the Harau Valley now. This cliff is huge and so vertical.

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We feel tiny here.

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Winda again :-)

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The Harau valley is also famous for its climbing wall.

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In fact there is a lot to do here.

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Winda front of the climbing wall.

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We arrived at on end of the valley. The road continues but Winda wants to show me a waterfall.

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The road continues further out of the high cliffs.

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Another “group” picture :-)

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Now we come back from where we came earlier.

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Wide angle view.

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Ok Winda, I can be in the frame too :-)

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We have been cycling few minutes on the same road and then we turned left to get to another part of the valley. The waterfall is not that far.

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I left my bike and Winda behind as I’m walking to the waterfall.

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First, there is a spot with a tiny natural pool compare to the amount of buoy.

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I continue walking.

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There is lots of cacao trees here.

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This is the waterfall :-)

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Not much water but it’s high. It could be a good massage place :-)

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They built wood platforms and bridges in the trees for the kids. I guess it’s not the peak season now because it is very quiet.

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Better view of one of the bridge.

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Not much space let for a beach. The warung are directly on the front of the water.

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A campground? This is the first time I see one in Indonesia.

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Winda explained to me that he is a doctor but a special one. He does paranormal and magic treatment. Many important people and overseas people come in Indonesia to see him. He must be very good! He told me that the last president of Indonesia had a consultation with him. Wow! Winda invited me in his house after we finish to eat here.

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Something I did not know before. In Indonesia, when you have finished eating you must put your fork and spoon in that position.

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If you do it this way it means you are still hungry and want more food.

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Again we come back on the same road that we took earlier.

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Winda and the landscape.


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Then I followed Winda to his home. Unfortunately he lives on the opposite side from where I want to go. We did 20km back. I was proud yesterday when I reached 90km and now it’s like I’ve done only 70km… Anyway, we have good time. Winda has a wall full of Magic stuff he uses to heal his patients.

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Same but different ;-)

We discussed for a while about his joke, about his cycling career, about my trip. Then Winda had something to do with his son and that was good for me too because I must hit the road again.


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I’ve been cycling to a Pertamina station I’ve seen yesterday to have a shower and filter some water. Shortly after my shower the rain started… I just have to wait now. Am I going to go further today because now I did not reach the point where I slept last night. I am going backwards!

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30 minutes later the sun came back. I’m ready to go! Quick! But before I took some more photos with Indonesian travellers who stopped at the Pertamina gas station.

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Few! finally on the road and further from where I slept yesterday. I feel better now :-)

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Another part of the Harau Valley? At least it’s similar.

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What is that? A huge node of roads suspended in the air? The 3 guys who wait outside their car, I’m sure I will take some picture with them.

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That is one step! And, yes, I did take some pictures with the guys ;-)

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This is not finished yet. This place is called “sembilan” which means “nine” in english.I guess Its name comes from the shape of the road seeing from above. It creates a kind of nice. I might be completely wrong.

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Satellite view. The old road is situated next to the title “Jl. Sumbar-Riau”

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The same old road is where there is the colorful stands. It’s very windy and steep. I prefered to take the long one.

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Lots of concrete here.

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From the bridge, I can see the last bit of the road.

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There is so many stands there which certainly sell food and other stuff.

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Last view of Sembilan. I’ve seen so many people staying along the road, breathing the pollution and watching happily this concrete thing. Well I would say it’s technologically impressive but I would not stay here an hour or more watch cars passing along.


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I’ve been cycling uphill all the rest of the day and found a Warung at the summit of the mount (I hope it is the summit).

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Directly after I’ve ordered some dinner the mother offered me to sleep here. On the right hand side of my bike there is a space with a bed. I guess it is used often by tired truck drivers. Tonight it’s for a tired cyclist haha :-)

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During I was having dinner, the rain started again. Definitely I’m staying here tonight.

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Later on, during I was chatting with the mother’s daughter, her brother and a friend came back home. Guess what they wanted? photo!

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Ok one more :-)

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The brother and his friend (don’t know who is who actually…). That’s it for today. Tomorrow I’m cycling downhill first, good!

5 thoughts on “Koto Tuo > Karau valley > Bukit Kumay (66km)

  1. The cliffs are very interesting. How did they come up like that? Is it like 2 planes meeting point?
    Winda’s work is interesting, too. Did you have a consultation with him?

    1. Hello Solder Man :-)
      Sorry for the very laaater reply. Since I’ve stopped touring, I haven’t checked my blog. I hope one day, I can cycle again. Indonesia was a great experience. People are very friendly, even too friendly sometimes ^^.
      Keep cycling man! Cheers! Dam

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